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近十年服裝發展特點:街頭潮牌和奢侈時裝“交換人生”

2019年12月23日 09:21 來源:BOF時裝商業評論 翻譯:Aijing Wang 責任編輯:雪人

 HighsnobietyCHUANGSHIRENJIANSHOUXIZHIXINGGUANDavid FischerSHUO:BURU2020NIAN,JIETOUFUSHIDUISHIZHUANGXIAOFEI、XIAOSHOUFANGSHIYIJIZHENGGESHIZHUANGWENHUADEYINGXIANGYIJIUSHENYUAN。

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欢乐生肖MEIGUONIUYUE——2010NIANDAI,WOMENMUDULEYICHANGGAIXIEYOUXIGUIZEDE“SHENFENRENTONG”WEIJI。JIETOUFUSHIBUXIANGZUOJIETOUFUSHILE,SHIZHUANGYEBUXIANGZUOSHIZHUANG:TAMENJUEDINGCHENGWEIDUIFANG。

2009NIAN,Virgil AblohHEDon CrawleyZAIZHIJIAGEDELIUTIAOGONGYUAN(Wicker Park)KAILEYIJIANMINGWEIRSVP GalleryDEJINGPINDIAN,BACUNSHANGLONG(Takashi Murakami)HEKawsDEYISHUZUOPIN,HEComme des Garçons、GUDONGChanel、A Bathing Ape,HEAmbushDESHOUSHIFANGZAIYIQI。Jazmin SotoZEKAISHIHEHood By Air DE Shayne OliverZAINIUYUEBULUKELINJUBANLEGHE20G0TH1K PAIDUI,YOUSHEJIAOCHANGHEYANSHENGDEDULIFUSHIPINPAIHood By AirGANGKAISHIFENGSHENGSHUIQI。DANGSHILouis VuittonDECHUANGYIZONGJIANHUANSHIMarc Jacobs,TAYAOQINGKANYE·WEISITE(Kanye West)YIQISHEJILESHEHUAYUNDONGXIEJIAONANGXILIE。

WEISITEDANGNIANGEILouis VuittonSHEJIDEGAOBANGQIUXIE“Jasper”、ZHONGBANG“Don”HEDIBANG“Mr Hudson”,CENGSHIJIETOUWENHUAZHUANGDADECHENGGONGBIAOZHI,TABENRENYECONGSHECHIPINDEXIAOFEIZHEBIANCHENGLECHUANGZAOZHE。DANGRANLE,NEISHIZAOJIUYOUSHANBENYAOSI(Yohji Yamamoto)HEADIDASI(Adidas)ZAIY-3XILIEHEZUO(CHUANGBANYU2003NIAN),Alexander McQueenYEHEPumaHEZUOLEMcQ(CHUANGBANYU2005NIAN)。BUGUO,ZHEXIEHEZUOGUANXIZHISHIBIAOMINGLESHIZHUANGSHEJISHIYUANYIZAIQINGBIANDEQIUXIEHEYUNDONGFUSHISHANGFAHUICAIHUA,DANWEISITEHELouis VuittonJIUWANQUANBUTONGLE:BUSHIGAODUANSHIZHUANG“XIACHEN”,ERSHIJIETOUWENHUAZAI“XIANGSHANG”。

“JIUSHECHIPIN”CENGSHI“PAITA”、“KEWANGCHENGGONG”HE“YOUHUO”DETONGYICI,RUJINYIBEIYICHANGJIYUSHEHUIBAORONG、KEDEHEZHISHIDEYUNDONGQUDAI。JIJIJINXINGXINSHIJIANDEPINPAI、YISHUJIAHESHEJISHIDUIJIUSHECHIPINDEGUIZETAISHUXILE,TAMENBAGUIZEGAIXIEDEGENGFUHEZIJIDEXUQIU。TAMENDONGDEPINPAIPEIZHIYUWANGHEGUANZHUZHEDEFANGSHI,YINWEITAMENZIJIJIUSHIGUANZHUZHE。GENGZHONGYAODESHI,TAMENJIANGSHECHIPINCONGYIMENXINGYEBIANCHENGYIZHONGWENHUAPINGTAI,SHIJIETOUWENHUADECUNZAIHELIHUA。

“JIUSHECHIPIN”YIBEIYICHANGJIYUSHEHUIBAORONG、KEDEHEZHISHIDEYUNDONGQUDAI。

DAOLE2010NIANDAI,KANYE · WEISITEYIJINGCHENGWEIZHIMINGDESHIZHUANGOUXIANG,ZHESHICIQIANDEMINGXINGSHIDAIWEICENGYOUGUODE。TAZAI2011NIANYUJay-ZHEZUODEZHUANJI《Watch the Throne》KAICHUANGLEMOUZHONG“SHEHUASHUOCHANG”DEFENGGE,YOURiccardo TisciFUZEZHUANJIFENGMIANHEXUNYANFUZHUANGDEYISHUZHIDAO。WEISITEDUITisciSHIDAIDEGivenchyXILIEDEZHICHI,YEQIANGHUALESHECHIPINPAIZAIJIETOUWENHUALINGYUDESHENGWANG,BALUOTEWEIERQUANHESHAYUZHUANGSHIDELIANMAOSHANHEYUNDONGSHANBIANCHENGLINGRENCHUIXIANDESHANGPIN。GUANZHUJIETOUFUZHUANGDESHOUZHONGKAISHIYUELAIYUEGUANZHUTTAI。Shayne OliverDEHood By AirHEVirgil AblohDEOff-WhiteBINGBUBAZIJIDINGYIWEIBAIHUOGONGSI“DANGDAIJIAWEI”DEJIETOUPINPAI,ERSHIYUYIGUOUZHOUSHEJIDASHIDESHIZHUANGWUTONGSHUYIGELIANMENGDE“SHEJISHIPINPAI”。

欢乐生肖GAOSUCHUANBODESHEJIAOMEITIHEHULIANSHIJIEGAIBIANLEQUANQIUXIAOFEIYUYAN。NINENGKANDAODEHENINENGMAIDAODEYIJINGKEYITONGBU,SHIZHUANGYINCICHENGWEIYIZHONGYONGYIGUANSHANGDEXINJINGGUAN。InstagramDENGPINGTAIDEJUEQIJINYIBUXUERUOLECHUANTONGSHIZHUANGZHANGMENRENDUICHAOLIUHEPINWEIDEHUAYUQUAN,DULICHUANGZUOZHEHEPINPAIWUXUTAOHAOCHUANTONGLINGSHOUSHANGHEZAZHIJIUNENGPEIYUSHUYUZIJIDESHOUZHONG。 

欢乐生肖Rhuigi VillaseñorDERhude、Kerby Jean-RaymondDEPyer MossHEJerry LorenzoDEFear Of GodDENGPINPAIZAIJIUSHIJIERELIEYONGBAOTAMENZHIQIAN,JIUSHIXIANLECHENGGONG。ZHEXIEPINPAIYOUQIJIANLIYOUBIANSHILIDEXIAOFEIZHEZHICHISHANG,ERZHEBUFENXIAOFEIZHETONGGUOZIXUEPEIYANGDEPINWEIZHENGBIANDEYUELAIYUEFUZA。

ZHEZHONGGUANDIANBUJINCUNYUJIANDINGBUYIDEPINPAIFENSIZHIZHONG,YECUNZAIYUZAISHIZHUANGPINPAIZHILIANGXIAHUASHIGANYUZHICHUWENTIDEJIANSHANGJIAMEN。JIUZAINEISHI,WOMENZHIDAO,“PINPAI”BUZAISHIYIGEJINGYINGHUIJIDEJULEBU,ERSHIWEIRAOWENHUAKEXINDUJUJISHOUZHONGDEPINGTAI,SHIBAPINPAIBIANCHENGZHENZHENGSHEQUNDEMIMIPEIFANG。

Virgil AblohZAI2014NIANGAOSUBoF,“WOZHISHIXIWANGWOMENNENGZUODAOJames Jebbias、 Shawn StüssysNEIYANG……SUOYOUZHEXIEJIETOUFUSHICHUANQI,WOMENYOUZERENJIEGUOTAMENDEGONGZUO。”ZHEQUESHIHENYOUXIANJIANZHIMING,NEIYIKEGENGXIANGSHIMOUZHONGZHUANZHEDIAN。NEIPIANCAIFANGDEBIAOTISHI《JIETOUFUSHIDEXINWEISHI》(Streetwear’s New Guard),QIFALEFarfetchJINQIYI6.75YIMEIYUANSHOUGOUNEIJIAGONGSIDEMINGZI——New Guards Group。ZHEJIAZONGBUWEIYUMILANDEGONGSIJINNIANFUHUALEZUISHOURENMENREYIDESHIZHUANGPINPAI,BAOKUOOff-White、Palm Angels、County of MilanHEHeron Preston。

欢乐生肖XIANZAIYIQIEYOUHUIDAOLEYUANDIAN。2018NIAN,ZAIWENHUANUOYONGCHOUWENZHIHOU,GucciZHONGQILEYUDapper DanZAINIUYUEHALINQUYUANBENTINGYEDUONIANDEJINGPINDIAN。WEISITEDEYeezyXILIEYIJITAYUADIDASIDECHIXUHEZUOYIJINGCHENGWEILIUXINGWENHUA(YIJIZHENGZHIWENHUA)DEREMENHUATI。DJYUJIETOUFUSHIPINPAIBeen TrillDESANWEICHENGYUAN——Heron Preston、Matthew WilliamsHEVirgil Abloh,DOUPINGJIEZIJIDELILIANGCHENGWEILEXIANGDANGDANGDESHIZHUANGRENWU。

JIBIANSHIKim Jones(TADEDIYIFENGONGZUOJIUSHIZAIJIETOUFUZHUANGJINGXIAOSHANGGimme Five,ZHESHIMichael Kopelman CHUANGBAN、StüssyHESupremeZUIZAODEPIFASHANGZHIYI)YEWANCHENGLELIANGGE“BIHUAN”。SHOUXIANSHI2017NIANSupremeYULouis VuittonDELIANMINGHEZUO,YIJIZUIJINYUShawn StüssyZAIDiorZUIXINXIUDEHEZUO。ZAIXINSHECHIPINSHIJIELI,LINGRENKEWANGDEBUZAISHIGAOANGJIAGE,ERSHIWENHUAJIAZHI。SupremeHEStüssyDECHENGGONGGUSHIJIANLIZAIZHEYANGDEQIANTISHANG:YIZHENGGETIDUIDESHIZHUANGAIHAOZHEDOUBEISHIZHUANGJIEHULVELE。SUOYITAMENYONGZIJIDEFANGSHI、YIZHONGBEIHUSHIDESHICHANGDEWENHUADAIMAZAIZAOSHIZHUANG。ZHEGEGUOCHENGZHONG,TAMENBANGZHUSHIZHUANGHEJIETOUFUSHICHUANGZAOLEYIZHONGXINDETONGYONGYUYAN。

Virgil AblohRUZHUVuitton,YIJIShawn StüssyYUDiorHEZUO,BINGBUYIWEIZHUJIETOUFUSHIDEDIWEITISHENGLE,ERSHISHECHIPINZOUJINLEXINDEZHANCHANG。SHECHIPINCONGJIETOUFUSHIDEDAODEZUIZHONGYAOJINGYANBUSHILEISIDropSHISHANGXIN、HUOSHILIANMINGHEZUO,HUOZHESHIYUNDONGFUSHIHEJUNZHUANGDEJINGDIANMEIXUE;XIANGFANDI,JIETOUFUSHIDEFENGGEYICHANJIANLIZAIQIANGDAERZIXINDEPINPAISHENFENRENTONGJIQIGONGYOUDEJIAZHIGUAN。ZHEYANGDEJIAZHIGUANDANSHENGZAIYIGE“Do it yourself”DECHUANGYISHIJIE,YEDIANWENHUA、PENGKE、LEIGUIHEXIHAYINLEWENHUADENGDENG。XINDESHECHIPINDANSHENGZAICHUANGYIRENSHIDESHOUZHONG,TAMENBIANXIEZIJIDEYOUXIGUIZE,BINGYINCIGONGCHENGMINGJIU。WOMENRUJINDOUZAIANZHAOTAMENDEYIYUANXINGSHI。

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